So I crouch low and clutch the board tightly like a beginner. I breathe deep and try to relax. I made it through and didn't fall (even if I did look a little awkward). That's a start. I guess it will become more comfortable eventually.
Monday, September 17, 2007
A Day at the Beach
It is a nice sunny day and we have averted a Tropical Depression. I paddle out to test the waters. It has been a while since I have actually "stood up to surf" (once again, bear with the analogy). I am a little nervous. How soon do I stand? Do I start slow and play over cautious? Do I jump up and take the first wave that rolls my way. I am trying to remain calm and play it by ear but I still feel apprehensive. It's been such a long time since I have actually experienced any waves.
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2 comments:
first you hang 5
then you hang 10
:)
wow, is that you? that's awesome. I've lived on both the east and west coast and never made time to go learn how to do that.
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